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Review
I'm standing a couple of feet from a slab of Baroda Green marble, watching a barista pull a shot. My mind, unhelpfully, is on the pup cup, and I don't even have a dog. Nandan's bothered to put a frozen banana, peanut-butter and yogurt treat on a laminated menu for four-legged guests. I guess they take hospitality pretty seriously here.
In a city that already knows its filter coffee from its flat white, that's a flex. Bengaluru did not need another coffee shop.
But this is less a coffee shop than a coffee estate, teleported wholesale from Palani Hills and reassembled inside Embassy One – ceilings raised almost as if to fit the ego of the idea. Nandan's flagship – the brand's second, after Mumbai and a run of pop-ups dating back to 2017 – arrives dragging three generations of provenance behind it, and it shows: sculptural lighting modelled on the Kodaikanal landscape, three-sided windows flooding the room with sunlight, a central bar holding court.
Four house blends anchor the menu – Royale Medium, Royale Medium-Dark, Royale Dark, Espresso Medium-Dark – each with its own tasting notes, each available as espresso, pour-over, French press or cold brew, in case you were worried about drinking the wrong bean the wrong way.
One wall is given over to a sniff-taste-decide ritual: smell the blend through an aroma pump, taste it from a hot flask, make up your mind. It's coffee tasting stripped of its usual self-seriousness: the Baskin-Robbins-31-flavours version of a ceremony that normally takes itself very seriously indeed.
The real draw is the Filter Kaapi Bar, which is a glass-fronted altar to South Indian coffee. The classic Nandan Filter Kaapi is strong and milky; the Honey Cardamom is warm without tipping into syrupy. The Spiced Orange Vanilla is the one that splits a table down the middle and earns you the look usually reserved for pineapple-on-pizza people. The Peanut Chikki – jaggery and you guessed it, peanut – tastes like a childhood sweet shop run through a Chemex.
The food matches the estate-meets-metro air. The Mari-wala Scramble – black pepper eggs, parmesan, a dusting of podi, sourdough underneath – is unfussy, and well-seasoned.
The Nandan Tiramisu French Toast is brioche soaked in house coffee, mascarpone, toffee syrup. It’s dessert cosplaying as breakfast and not trying very hard to hide it. Fair enough, because it works. The Jola Ribs, roasted corn doing a cheeky riff on a Marine Drive monsoon snack, are the shareable that tastes better than it photographs, which is saying something. Bengaluru gets its own exclusive too: the Rasam Minestrone, garlic rasam and parmesan rind thrown in with vegetables and pasta. What’s skippable: the wellness aisle, where a protein coffee shake and a ‘skin-friendly’ green apple fizz.
The room itself relies on natural light and estate-toned materials. Farida Mariwala Interiors and Faizan Khatri have sidestepped Bengaluru's usual Scandi-minimal script and the retail counter at the back, stacked with roasts, ceramicware and travel kits, somehow avoids tipping into gift-shop territory.
Is it a lot of origin story to swallow with your cappuccino? Sure. Three generations, a biodiverse sanctuary, elephants wandering through the coffee plants, a founder's line about reverence for the land… there's enough mythology here for a short documentary, and that’s not for everyone. But unlike most brands performing sustainability for the gram, Nandan actually grows, roasts and serves under one family's hand.
The vibe: A Kodaikanal estate got teleported into Sadashivnagar and immediately felt at home.
The coffee: Four house blends, a filter kaapi bar worth the detour, cold brews in more flavours than strictly necessary.
The food: Podi-spiced eggs and estate-coffee French toast carry the menu; skip the wellness shakes.
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