Lardo has been a Hackney failsafe since the heady days of 2012. A blissfully fuss-free and reliable neighbourhood pizza parlour, its semi-industrial set-up on Richmond Road acted as a Swiss Army knife of restaurants; not only ideal for washing away Spurstowe hangovers, but for entertaining troublesome toddlers and dates you weren’t sure were definitely dates.
A menu bristling with anarchic innovation
It didn’t particularly need to switch things up (aside from tackling the hilarious trek through an apartment block foyer to find the shared toilets) but almost 15 years after opening, Lardo has reinvented itself by installing the idiosyncratic Marta Sandini in the kitchen. After stints at triple Michelin-starred Hiša Franko in Slovenia and the one-star Luca in Clerkenwell, as well as a little time in China, the Veneto-raised chef has been tasked with bringing Lardo up to par with east London’s new wave of trendy tablecloth trattorias (Tiella, Auguste, Dalla etc).
Rather than leaning into their sleek energy, she’s done it with a global approach to casual Italian cuisine that’s as playful as it is unhinged. Take, for example, a giant spring roll stuffed with smooshed potato and mushed-up mushroom, which rests its heroically crispy bottom on a puddle of parmesan cream and crispy chilli oil. Tuscan dining by way of Cantonese cookery, it’s an A-list take on a Findus Crispy Pancake. Insane? Yes, but whole-heartedly brilliant, too. Slightly more sensible, but only just, is a brined watermelon salad embellished with worm-like wiggles of charred lemon puree and a bed of whipped feta, just for fun. It’s sweet and tart and tangy and savoury all at once, and looks like something Peppa Pig would take on a family picnic. There’s also an unfurled artichoke, oily and fresh, dotted with hazelnuts and charred at the edges, perhaps the most trad dish on a menu bristling with anarchic innovation.
Of course, we have to order a pizza. Among the classics sits a new addition; white with fior de latte, and simply splodged with yellow datterini tomatoes, anchovies and basil. Dip the crusts into a virile fermented chicken skin hot sauce, and experience true peace. Traditional desserters will go for the tiramisu (sturdy, boozy, no notes), while the more experimental might try a cheesecake-y cream with a crunchy, spicy black pepper and focaccia pangrattato.
Always a great neighbourhood restaurant, Lardo didn’t need to change a thing, but we’re kind of happy it did.
The vibe A classic Hackney neighbourhood spot, with a great outdoor terrace.
The food Italian roots with global flavours.
The drink Natural wine, aperitivo and a great martini.
Time Out tip Monday nights is Crust Club, with two pizzas for £25 and £5 margs and negronis. One hell of a deal.