Lalaon

On the NYC KBBQ scale of “packed to the rafters with SVPs in fleece vests” to “unsigned Murray Hill secret on the second floor,” Lalaon’s Cote-ish pricing and gold-drenched interior land it squarely in the sweet spot for fourth dates or a big night out of the group chat. Still, its location, anchoring a tower of condos nearly half a mile from the L train, gives it an insider-y vibe. 

Lalaon appears to be trying to split the difference, with its stated intention of bringing “the communal spirit of the Han River” to the Williamsburg waterfront. On the Han, which halves Seoul, you’ll find that spirit in a dining scene built for picnicking along the water. Shops rent out picnic blankets, folding tables and chairs; instant “Hangang ramyeon” is made to order by convenience-store machines; and delivery apps direct your driver to bring fried chicken to your mat. It’s communal, certainly, and memorable, creating intimacy even within a crowd and a sense of frictionlessness at scale—just like Lalaon.  

At 10,000 square feet, Lalaon’s sprawling interior features a smart design that separates its shining bar from the two-floor dining room, with horseshoe-shaped booths and long tables equipped with barbecues. Outside, a grill-less patio overlooks the water, ideal for an impromptu date after a walk on Pier 5. An order of fried chicken, made with soy-chili glaze and chili crisp, plus a couple of Korean beers, will bring you about as close to a waterfront picnic as you can get here. The small plate menu also features a raw bar and takes on Korean favorites, like a gochujang-soaked tteokbokki with sliced kielbasa and shavings of parm that turn the umami up to 11. 

Step inside, and you’ll get the full “BBQ Experience.” For $80/person, it includes four cuts of meat (on a recent visit, this included dry-aged steak, American wagyu, hanger steak and short ribs), plus an array of banchan. Folds of pink pickled radish and chewy strips of burdock arrive at the table, plus kimchi stew, egg soufflé, scallion salad, rice and more, plus dessert and a cold, sweet glass of cinnamon punch to finish. It’s big and luxurious; it’s easy and fun; it’s slick and a little surprising. Until a robot’s preparing your ramen along the Han, Lalaon succeeds at bringing the Han River spirit to our city’s condo-ed shores. 

The vibe: Big and gleaming, with warm service, it’s a new favorite for group dinners, client meals or showing off your cool new life in New York City to your visiting family. 

The food: Small plates abound, with a sweet but never-super-spicy kick. Sharp brine and citrusy shiso cut through the chili paste and rich stews and soufflés. Four selections of meat are cooked at the table, then served with salt, rice and a tableful of banchan that keep reappearing as your night goes on.   

The drinks: The Ah-Ah, an espresso martini, and the Guyl, a spicy marg with mandarin, play the hits; Korean beer, wine by the glass and a handful of non-alcoholic cocktails make it easy for the whole table to order. 

Time Out tip: Currently, reservations can only be made for the “BBQ Experience,” so expect to spend $80/person, plus any add-ons like Japanese A5 wagyu, filet mignon or a seafood tower.  

Address: 22 N 6th St, Brooklyn, NY 11249